At my last birthday, my son gave me a birthday card and said your present is inside. I opened the card and there was a piece of A4 saying "Holiday in Benidorm". Thanks, I said.
Now Benidorm is a destination that carries some baggage with it. It is the destination of choice for those Britains' who really want Blackpool with good weather and even cheaper lager. Benidorm is famed for full English breakfasts, with English sausages and a mug of builders tea. There are plenty of sports bars serving all the English brands of lager, like Stella Artois and San Miguel. There are also several Irish bars serving genuine Guinness.
There are also the same fast food brands that you'd find in any UK city or town. The ubiquitous golden arches, the chicken from Kentucky, pizzas named after a pub game and more.
So not so much an experience of a different culture, with local fresh food and dancing, more of a home from home. Globalization has much to answer for.
Back in the 1960s, my maternal grandparents were early adopters of the Jet powered package holiday. They had been holidaying abroad before by using the train and ferries and then train again to their final destination. But when air travel became affordable, they jumped at the chance to board a BAC 111, the charter flight aircraft of choice, and arrived in Ibiza to find local fishing villages, fresh seafood and local entertainment (bullfights, flamenco etc) all washed down with plenty of local wine and sherry. This was long before the commercialization of many Spanish holiday destinations, or, as many think, the ruination of these destinations.
So I was with trepidation that I, tentatively, looked forward to my weekend in Benidorm.
The weekend got off to a bad start. The post 9/11 paranoia, that still exists at Airports nearly 25 years later, proved to hold us up for longer than necessary. The security operative had clearly used Midnight Express as a training video rather than entertainment. The delight with which I was asked to accompany him and went through my suitcase and carry on bag, was palpable.
By the time I wheezed up to the boarding gate, with my heart about to give up the unequal fight with my age and my painful feet complaining, they shut the gate and wouldn't let us through. Bastards!
This is the downside of modern travel, negotiating the security systems that were put in place for our security but which are intrusive and are designed to make the traveler feel like Billy Hayes.
My son got on the phone later in the day and the holiday company agreed that we could fly the next day, Saturday, and we could return on the Tuesday. A quick email to my boss to ask permission to change my holiday dates, resulted in an enquiry of such depth that it made the Watergate investigation look like a call to directory enquiries. Eventually permission was granted but with the mini lecture that I must be more organized in future.
After all the nonsense of the previous day, The day of the flight went perfectly. We arrived at the airport and, in contrast to the previous day, we were sat in the bar drinking a beer less than an hour after leaving my house.
The flight passed, not exactly pleasantly, but quickly enough that it didn't really matter and we emerged at Alicante airport ready for our transport to our hotel.
Arrival at the Hotel Olympia, in Benidorm Old Town, was a real delight. The hotel has an old world charm. The quiet entrance is in a street off of the main pedestrianised area. You step into the reception area and are greeted by a member of staff who welcomes you to the hotel and efficiently does the admin to check you into your room without looking myopically at a computer screen for half an hour.
We dropped our bags in our room and ventured out to find some dinner. Time was moving on and it was about 10pm, but we found a lovely little family run restaurant where a simple meal of Spaghetti Bolognese for myself and a freshly cooked pizza for my son. From out table we could watch the kitchen staff spark into life and cook our food, The food was delicious and reasonable price at 35 Euros for both of us, include a couple of beers each. This was a venue that we'd return to during our brief stay in Benidorm.
We then repaired to a bar and sat outside enjoying a drink and a chat.
The next day we ventured out early following an enjoyable breakfast. I'd brought along a Polaroid Flip camera and four packs of film. Getting the film through the security at the UK airport was a nightmare as it can't be X-Rayed or CT Scanned. At £17.99 a pack, you don't want the film ruined! So I'd calculated on using 2 packs a day during our stay.
Now I have to say that Benidorm Old Town is relatively unspoiled and lacks the gaudy, noisy, dreadful attack on the senses that you get a couple of hundred yards down the coast. The streets are a great place to take contemplative stroll post breakfast and the early morning air is fresh and welcome. The shops are a mixture of local crafts, butchers, bakers, and shoe shops.
The Benidorm castle is easily accessible but there are only foundations still to be seen and a modern viewing area is built over the top, with perspex windows to allow viewing of medieval foundations and stonework. The view of the coast and sea is at it's best here.
The early morning light was excellent and a contrast to the dull, dark conditions at home. I pulled out the Polaroid Flip and shot some pictures,
The Flip is a beautifully simple camera. I borrowed the Flip from Dave Whenham (@daveinelland) and he has borrowed my Polaroid I-2. The I-2 has lots of features and can be a bit complex to navigate. The Flip is much simpler and works better for it. I quickly shot the first film and reloaded.
In the Old Town there are plenty of subjects to shoot, but my preference is for double exposures and I was not left wanting. We walked and walked until it was lunch time and a delicious luncheon was enjoyed, again in a street bar. The temperature at the end of January is 18 degrees Celsius and so the ability to walk around as it it were a cooler summers day in the UK was possible.
More walking in the afternoon took us along the coast toward the opposite end of the beach. There wasn't much along here but the walk was pleasant and we popped into a bar about 3pm for a restorative beer.
By the time we wandered back to the Hotel, I'd shot all the film for the day.
Following another meal at the restaurant we'd been in the previous night, we had a final drink in a lovely little bar about a 100 yards from the Olympia, sitting out until about 1am.
The next day, and nursing a bit of a hangover, we had a chilled day that included 3 meals, beer and more Polaroid photography.
We were collected at 06:20 (am) the following morning for our flight home.
I was surprised and delighted by Benidorm Old Town and I think that it was well worth a visit and made a nice weekend break.
