Film photography, a new approach.

I use a hybrid approach to film photography. I shoot film in a camera, develop the film myself and then, when the negatives are dry, I scan the negatives using a DSLR, an led light pad and a Pixl-ator. 

That work flow allows an accurate copy of the physical negative to be made in the digital environment. 

Further processing can take place in a photo editing suite to convert the negative to a positive and make it look like a photo.

Up to now I've been happy with the workflow and if a negative isn't what I'd hoped then, that's the unpredictability of film photography isn't it?

Turns out that this isn't the case.

So I've sought some help in improving my technique.

Last weekend I went on a day trip and so I took my Nikon F75 loaded with a roll of FP4 Plus.

Given the dreadful conditions, the incessant rain that was falling with no sign of stopping, I dialed in -1 exposure compensation to shoot the film at an effective ISO 250. 

The camera sets the film ISO using DX encoding on the film cartridge. So the only way to change the effective ISO is to dial in exposure compensation.

Anyway I shot the film on my day out, returned home and developed the film, ensuring the development time was adjusted to take into account the reduced exposure that the film was exposed at.

After the film was hung to dry and then sleeved, I left the "scanning" for a day when I could give the job my full attention.

That day was Bank Holiday Monday.

So I started on with the scanning work. I set my DSLR on to a tripod and setup the Pixl-ator.

So the new process.

The Camera will need to be configured to capture RAW files and the shutter needs to be set to delay by 2 seconds. That way everything has two seconds to settle before the shutter is fired. On my camera beeps during the countdown.

When you have the negative in the holder, configure the camera for manual exposure, an ISO of 100 and set the aperture to f5.6. To configure the exposure, you need to switch to "live view" and then bring up the histogram for the live view. Adjust the shutter speed until the histogram is just shy of the right hand side. It's best for the histogram to be just short of the right hand side rather than up against it, which could cause clipping.

Now to focus. Switch the lens, I use a Canon 100mm f2.8 Macro lens, to manual focus on the lens itself. Now on the live view on the camera zoom in to 10x so that you can see the grain of the film. Now adjust the focus so that the grain is sharp. Thats the focus locked in. Zoom out again so you can see the whole negative.

Take a photo of the negative.

Review the photo on the camera and review it's histogram.

Before continuing to scan the rest of the roll, it's worth transferring the photo to the laptop to review it on a bigger screen and in a RAW converter.

Thats the basics of the improvements to my scanning technique, And I'm really please with the results.